Topic: [How-to] 95 Passat VR6 Alternator (Dynamo)

[bulldogs cabrio]

95 Passat VR6 Alternator
Applies to: Passat V6 30v, Passat VR6



Specifics apply to 1995 Passat wagon and some details may differ for your vehicle.

Before you begin you should have a decent set of hand tools (including socket sets), a 24" extension, a telescoping magnetic pickup tool, a new drive belt and a great deal of patience.

Step 1. Disconnect the battery.

Step 2.
Remove The Air Box



Remove the large hose clamps holding on the air intake tube. Remove the PCV hose, and ISV hose from the intake tube. Remove the tube completely including PCV assembly to make room to actually see the rear motor mount.

Expect the rubber fittings near the PCV valve to break if the vehicle is older and you bend too far. Reairable with JB weld and 1/2" PVC pipe. Also remove box intake pipe, cover and filter.

Remove plastic cover between headlight assembly and air box. This will give you more room and better visualization.

Remove the air box cover, filter and lower section of the air box. It is held in by (a) thick rubber band(s). You'll see them.

One round "rubber band" on the engine side. The box sits on two pins (engine side) and over a large pin on its end (fender side). Remove top end of the rubber band with a hook (bottom end is captive), lift engine side off of pins and lift while pulling toward engine. Wiggle until the large outer pin releases. Lastly remove and save the rubber band so that it doesn't get in the way.

Step 3.

Loosen motor mounts (but not the tranny mount). To loosen a Volkswagen VR6 front motor mount, simply remove the three 10mm nuts on the front motor mount from underneath the car. That's it for the front mount! NOTE: Did nothing but remove a cover on the vehicle.



The cover could have stayed on. Instead remove the single 17mm bolt from the top of the mount using a long extension. Finding the bottom of the mount (easy) will help you to locate the top side. Lift the bolt out with a telescoping magnet.



For the (right side) rear mount, simply remove the two 13mm bolts visible directly underneath the throttle body. They are on either side of the rear mount looking down. On mine they were covered with an aluminum shield. First remove the one 13mm bolt holding the wiring bracket to the mount then the round pin "nut". Then remove the wiring bracket and aluminum shield.





Now you can see the two motor mount bolts. You will need a 24 inch entension bar for your ratchet and the magnetic pickup to lift them out.

Step 4.
Release the serpentine belt tension by tightening down the tension release bolt. Remove the belt. Tension bolt is 8mm x 8 or 8mm x 1.50 t/mm about 2" long. You will need at least 1-1/2" of threads, 2" is better. After the belt is off, remove the tensioner.

Step 5.
Raising the VR6 motor

Using a jack and a short or 2x6 to protect the oil pan, jack up the motor until there is enough room for the alternator to slide into position where the air box was. The stock VR6 exhaust has enough flexibility to move this much. You do NOT need to remove or loosen any part of the exhaust or the tranny mount. This was easier than expected, but brace the weight of the engine on cribbing. You do not want the jack to slip and crush your hand or snap the manifold or alternator.

Step 6.
Remove the two bolts holding the alternator to the block. GENTLY pry it loose. Unplug and unbolt all cables attached to the alternator. There is also a small 8mm nut holding the main lead (in a cable clamp) on. After all bolts and cables are removed, the alternator can slide into the space where the air box belongs, and out of the engine bay. It requires a little bit of visualization and reorientation. You are halfway there! Take a break.

Step 7.
Installation is reverse of removal. Don't forget to reinstall the motor mount bolts!

# Alternator first. Antiseize compound on the mounting ears and very gentle persuasion with a bar helps. It a precision fit.
# Gently lower engine but not all the way. See if front mount aligns. You can shift the rubber mount half an inch with a prybar at the side or a screwdriver down the center. Insert bolt and thread in but do not tighten.
# Lower a bit more if necessary and check alignment or rear motor mount bolts. You can GENTLY move the engine with a 36" crowbar if needed. Everything should be close to correct, so needed movement will be minimal. Reinstall the bolts loosely, then lower the engine jack. Tighten all motor mount bolts.
# Reinstall aluminum cover and wiring bracket over rear motor mount.
# Install the new belt. It's a PITA because of tight clearances. It helps to gently push the engine away from the fender with wooden wedges.





This will add almost an inch more finger room. Wrap bottom pulleys first from below. It will be tight getting the belt up through the center of the mid-level pulleys. Place belt around all pulleys then reinstall tensioner without tension. Recheck alignment of the belt then re-tension it. Note: Removing wheel and plastic inner lower fender liner might help, but my screws were stuck so I didn't bother.
# Reinstall main air tube and PCV assembly. Remember to plug in the small plug to the PCV and the large to the MAF sensor. There is also a small vacuum hose that hooks in near the PCV.
# Now is a good time to check for loose and cracked vacuum hoses.
# Reinstall the rubber band and make sure that it leans toward the engine and not under the air box.



# Reinstall the air box bottom. You will need to get the large outboard pin into the fender hole first, so install at an angle and drop the inboard side once the pin fits. It's a tight fit but you can reach the hole with left hand fingertips to help align.
# After the box drops in, lift the rubber retaining band with a hook and work it up and over the proper clip.
# Reinstall air input tube then the filter and cover. Reinstall the main air tube.
# Reinstall the plastic cover between the air box and headlight assembly.

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